DPP, PEF and textile ecolabels: what's the difference for brands?
DPP, PEF, EU Ecolabel, OEKO-TEX — the acronyms multiply in sustainable fashion. This guide clarifies each tool, what it requires and how they work together.
Why this is so hard to untangle
When you work in sustainable fashion, you constantly navigate acronyms that seem related but refer to very different things. A buyer asks for your PEF score. A retail partner wants your EU Ecolabel. Your legal team talks about the DPP. And you wonder if these might just be the same thing under different names.
They are not. Here is what each tool covers, why it exists, and how to combine them effectively.
The DPP: a mandatory digital document
The Digital Product Passport (DPP) is mandated by the European ESPR regulation (2024/1781). It is not a calculation method or a certification — it is a standardised information container, accessible via a QR code printed on the product.
What it contains: material composition, supply chain traceability, carbon footprint, substances of concern, care and recycling instructions, manufacturer identifiers.
Who must comply: any company placing a textile product on the European market — manufacturer, importer or distributor under own brand.
When: the textile delegated act is expected in 2026 with enforcement from 2027.
Format: machine-readable JSON-LD, human-readable public web page, GS1 Digital Link QR code.
The PEF: a European calculation method
The Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) is a life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology defined by the European Commission. It standardises how to measure and communicate a product's environmental impact across 16 impact categories: climate change, acidification, land use, human toxicity, and more.
For textiles, the reference methodology is the PEFCR Apparel & Footwear (Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules), which adapts the PEF framework to the specifics of clothing and footwear.
What PEF produces: a numeric aggregated score (or a list of scores per impact category) calculated from lifecycle data about your product.
What it is not: a certification or label. PEF is a methodology. There is no "PEF accreditation" awarded to a product — you say a product has been "assessed using the PEF method."
Link to the DPP: PEF results — particularly the carbon footprint — can be included in the DPP as environmental data. Some ESPR delegated acts may even require a PEF or PEF-compatible assessment to calculate the carbon footprint field in the DPP.
Ecolabels: voluntary certifications
Ecolabels are certifications awarded by independent third-party bodies, attesting that a product meets a specific set of environmental and/or social requirements. In textiles, several labels coexist:
EU Ecolabel (European Ecolabel)
Created by the European Commission, it certifies that a textile product meets strict criteria across its full lifecycle: composition, dyeing processes, energy consumption, chemical substances and durability. It is the only official EU label.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100
Certifies that textile products — including yarns, fabrics and accessories — have been tested for the absence of harmful substances. It does not cover overall environmental impact, but is widely recognised by consumers.
OEKO-TEX MADE IN GREEN
A traceability label that certifies both absence of harmful substances (Standard 100) and manufacturing under responsible social conditions. It includes a QR code that lets consumers trace their product's origin.
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
Certifies that fibres are organic (organic cotton, organic wool…) and that processing respects ecological and social criteria. The global reference for organic textiles.
GRS (Global Recycled Standard)
Certifies the presence and proportion of recycled content in a textile product. Essential for brands claiming use of post-consumer materials.
Comparison table
| Tool | Type | Mandatory? | Issued by | What it proves |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DPP | Digital document | Yes (2027 for textiles) | ESPR-compliant platform | Product data transparency |
| PEF / PEFCR | Calculation method | No (may be required in DPP) | LCA bodies | Measured environmental impact |
| EU Ecolabel | Official EU label | No (voluntary) | EU accredited bodies | Compliance with EU criteria |
| OEKO-TEX 100 | Health certification | No (voluntary) | OEKO-TEX Association | Absence of harmful substances |
| GOTS | Organic certification | No (voluntary) | GOTS e.V. | Organic fibres + production conditions |
| GRS | Recycled certification | No (voluntary) | Textile Exchange | Certified recycled content % |
How to combine them in your DPP
The good news: the DPP is designed to include information from ecolabels and PEF calculations. There is no competition between these tools — they feed one another.
In practice, your textile DPP can reference:
- Carbon footprint calculated per PEFCR → fills the DPP "environmental impact" field
- GOTS certification for your cotton → fills the DPP "material certifications" field
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100 score → fills the DPP "substances of concern" field
- GRS certification → fills the DPP "certified recycled content" field
The DPP thus becomes the single entry point for all this information, made accessible with one QR code scan.
Questions brands ask
"We already have the EU Ecolabel — are we exempt from the DPP?"
No. The EU Ecolabel and the DPP coexist. Your label is an asset you can reference in your DPP, not a substitute for it. All textile products will need a DPP from 2027, labelled or not.
"PEF calculation seems complex and expensive. Is it mandatory?"
The PEF method is not explicitly mandatory at this stage, but the DPP will require carbon and environmental footprint data. Using PEFCR to calculate it is the best way to ensure consistency and comparability. A category-level estimate is sufficient to get started.
"Do we need a separate PEF assessment for every product?"
No. Initially, an assessment per product family (e.g. cotton t-shirt, denim jeans, polyester jacket) can serve as a reference for similar products. Product-specific assessments can progressively enrich the DPP.
"Our ecolabels expire periodically. How do we handle that in the DPP?"
The DPP is a living document. Data should be updated when it changes. An ESPR-compliant platform like DPPify lets you update certifications in a few clicks without regenerating the QR code.
What this means for your strategy
For a textile brand that wants to prepare for 2027 without getting lost in regulatory complexity, here is the recommended priority order:
1. Start the DPP now — collect the basics (composition, suppliers, country of manufacture) and put them in a compliant platform.
2. Leverage your existing certifications — GOTS, OEKO-TEX, GRS: feed them directly into your DPP from day one.
3. Plan a PEF calculation for your 5-10 best-selling product families by 2026.
4. Build toward additional labels if your positioning requires it — EU Ecolabel, OEKO-TEX MADE IN GREEN.
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Ready to create your first textile DPP? Try DPPify for free — our textile templates already include fields for your certifications and impact calculations.
Also read: Textile DPP 2027: the obligations explained, our complete Digital Product Passport guide and the textile DPP landing page.